Tree, Bush & Shrub

The word ‘tree’ brings to mind a tall, woody, permanent (perennial) plant with a main trunk and heavy branches forming a distinct elevated crown of twigs and leaves. Both gymnosperms (cone-bearing) and angiosperms (flowering plants) can grow in a tree form. Fire Dragon® Shantung Maple is a typical example with a single trunk and a rounded crown.  

Teddy Bear® Magnolia is a tree that offers evergreen color and fragrant flowers in spring.

Contrast this with a bush or a shrub.  Scratch that; the term 

‘bush’ is strictly non-scientific and colloquial, and although in conversation people use the words interchangeably, it is shrubs we wish to discuss. The gestalt or overall concept of a ‘shrub’ is a low, woody, perennial plant with several woody stems, and is very different from a tree. 

An extreme example of a small shrub form is Micron® Holly with a characteristic mounding or pillowing habit, making this compact, multi-branching shrub distinctive in the landscape. 

Perhaps a more typical example of an upright, multi-branched shrub is Green Borders Boxwood. 

But as gardeners know, Nature does not like black and white, but prefers Countless  shades of gray. And so there are multi-trunk trees like Birch and Willow, and also low-growing trees that branch near ground level such as dissected-leaf Japanese maples. As well, there are shrubs that tend to have only one trunk like some Crape Myrtles and very tall shrubs like lily-flowered Magnolias (or maybe these are multi-trunk trees?). There’s a mind-blowing discussion at the Native Tree Society.  

Trees are permanent fixtures that define the landscape and offer shade, windbreak, ornament and even fruit. Shrubs anchor the landscape with their multitude of sizes, forms, leaf- and twig-colors and flowering habits. Evergreens in either category provide stability and winter color. Both are easy to care for and will increase in beauty over time with minimal effort. 

What shrubs and trees are growing in your landscape? 

Diagram Credit Susan Grace 

Photo Credit, Landscape photo Don Vandervort

What’s in a name? Naturalized Plants or Invasive Exotics

Somewhat like fashion, horticultural perspectives change over the years, going in and out of vogue.  In my Wyman’s Gardening Encyclopedia, first published in 1971 as a “bible for American and Canadian gardeners by the dean of American horticulture” and its second edition of 1986, I had occasion to look up ‘naturalized.’  A brief paragraph informs that it is ‘a horticultural term for an exotic plant that has escaped from formal garden planting and become established and is increasing “on its own” in the new country. Many European plants, especially “weeds” have become “naturalized” since first being brought to America by the early settlers.’

When I looked up “exotic” all it had to say is ‘Foreign, not native.’  And “invasive” was not even listed.  

As an example, in Wyman’s Gardening Encyclopedia Honeysuckle is extolled as ‘easily grown’ and it notes that ‘their chief ornamental value is their [fragrant] flowers, their colorful fruits and their ability to grow under various conditions. Fruits of the honeysuckles range in color from bright red and yellow to dark blue and black, and some are whitish and translucent. They are most attractive to the birds.’ Its vigorous growth is not even mentioned.  

Yet today’s more sophisticated media emphasizes the harmful effects on native flora and ecosystems resulting from planting the Japanese honeysuckle vine. Search by name on the internet and more attention is paid to the invasive nature of this exotic species than to its ornamental qualities. 

For example, in the Wikipedia article there are more lines about the invasive qualities of Lonicera japonica than there are about its description and uses combined. The U.S.D.A. site  calls it a noxious weed, the Floridata page has a warning symbol and text, while the Center for Invasive Species and Ecosystem Health lists dozens of  states and organizations naming it a ‘severe threat.’  

When I checked the Martha Stewart website under Gardening, the entry was all about features.  Features included ‘attractive flowers, attractive foliage, attracts butterflies, attracts hummingbirds, and fragrant. Garden uses included ‘climbing, containers and ground covers.’ Guess something got overlooked this time. 

To learn more, join your local Native Plant Society. They focus on beautiful ornamental natives and on combating invasive exotics. Are you a member? 

photo credit: Emilycompost website for Japanese Honeysuckle picture

Brilliant Tree Leaf Color

In autumn, people are revved up by the fall color phenomenon and “leaf peepers” make trips to view fall foliage and changing forest colors. Strongbad1982's Autumn Leaf map (right) is released to the public domain. Albert Camus noted Autumn is a second spring where every leaf is a flower. "  

Autumn color occurs at the end of summer as the days get shorter because green chlorophyll levels in the leaves begin to decrease, revealing the yellow and orange pigments that have been hidden since spring. Carotenoid pigments are present in the leaves year-round, but are masked by chlorophyll, so leaves look green in summer. In fall as the supply of chlorophyll dwindles, the other pigments are able to show through. Carotenoids are the dominant pigment in the autumn coloration of 25% of the hardwood tree species producing brilliant yellows and oranges (for example, ash, aspen, birch, hickory, maple and sassafras).

Sometimes carotenoids are present in such abundance that the plant has an orange or yellow color all year long. Take carrots for instance. Or take the leaves of  The Rising Sun™ Redbud from Garden Debut®. New growth (left) remains apricot-tangerine all year (at right), while mature leaves are bright yellow until late spring, turning green in summer, then changing to golden yellow for fall.

The bright reds and purple combinations that enliven tree species in autumn in temperate regions result from another pigment, called anthocyanin.  Anthocyanins develop in late summer as the glucose in leaf sap breaks down in the presence of bright sunlight and decreasing levels of phosphate. The most brilliant colors occur during a period of cool-but-not-freezing nights and days filled with bright, plentiful sunlight, which increases production of anthocyanins and results in the most eye-catching color displays.  In New England, forests appear vivid with reds, purples and brilliant maroons because up to 75% of tree species produce these colorful anthocyanins (such as Cherry, Dogwood, Maple, Oak, Parrotia, Persimmon, Sourwood/Tupelo and Sweetgum).  

In spring, anthocyanins temporarily color the edges of some young leaves as they unfurl from buds. One example is Garden Debut®'s Fire Dragon™ Shatung Maple PP 17367. Acer truncatum is also known as ‘Purple Blow’ Maple, due to this light reddish-purple spring color on new growth. After a green summer, fall color is strong, pure, bright red reported from Oregon to New York and Virginia to Arkansas, Oklahoma, Texas and all the way to Houston. 

Another example of a pigment overcoming chlorophyll in summer is the dark wine red leaf color of Burgundy Hearts® Redbud PP19654.  An abundance of anthocyanins suppress the chlorophyll, yielding the dark red heart-shaped leaves.  

The combination of all of these pigments produce the beautiful fall foliage colors ranging from the palest buttercream yellow to deep orange, fiery reds, purples and bronzes, while brown colors like leathery Oaks) are made from the cell walls and metabolic wastes left in the leaves.

What's your favorite? Will you post favorite fall leaf photos? 

Container Herb Gardens from Greenleaf Nursery Company, NC

Rummaging around on the Facebook Page of Greenleaf NC I found some lovely Container Herb Gardens that they have made up. Find them in your favorite retail garden center. The one at left contains Flat Parsley, Chives and is called their "Mashed Potato Blend". 

Although I think outdoors-in-the-ground is best when growing herbs, not everyone has the luxury of a garden area. The majority of herbs need full sun and high light intensity, excellent drainage and a sweet soil on the alkaline side. Several herbs will fit quite nicely into the smallest scrap of ground. But if you wish to grow some fragrant and culinary herbs thrive in planter boxes or containers, keep in mind a few simple rules.

Herbs need excellent drainage in containers or in the ground, so for planters choose a potting mix labeled for cactus, or add sharp river sand or extra Perlite to the potting soil to allow water to drain quickly. Make sure plants are watered regularly – sparingly at first, then more thoroughly as the plants become established and fill the pots. It’s standard practice to water well so that the water comes through the drainage hole at the bottom, but afterward never let them sit in water; simply empty the saucers after a few minutes. The old fashioned tip of first adding an inch or two of pot shards or pebbles at the bottom of the pot is no longer approved, as research has shown it merely shortens the water column inside the container and keeps the soil soggier. Finally, individual pots can dry out quickly; larger containers that hold several favorite herbs at once is the way to go.

Because many of the fragrant and culinary herbs evolved in the Mediterranean or Near East, they prefer an alkaline soil, achieved by adding some pulverized lime to the potting mix before potting up. This is especially true if the soil-less potting mix has a peat moss base, which is naturally very acidic.

Finally, here’s hoping you have a south-facing deck or balcony. Full sun is best, and herbs become pale green, weak and spindly when someone attempts to grow them indoors. Even grown under fixtures having four, high wattage, fluorescent Grow-Lights, herbs grown indoors can’t compare with outdoor-grown ones.

Keep container grown herbs in a sheltered, sunny place, and if a hard freeze is expected, lug them indoors overnight. When harvesting, snip a leaf or two all the way to the base, rather than shearing the tops of several leaves. Add to Thanksgiving stuffing or salad for a taste of summertime. 

The container on the right (above) is called the "Turkey Herb Blend" containing Tri-colored Sage, Tuscan Blue Upright Rosemary and Creeping Thyme, recommended for a healthful main course, while the third photo bottom left is the "Stuffing Herb Blend" planted with Italian Parsely, Creeping Thyme and Sage, best used to season the stuffing for a memorable Thanksgiving menu. Next spring, remove the herbs from the container and plant in the garden for continued enjoyment. 

Photos courtesy of the Greenleaf Nursery Facebook Page.  http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000437466869

Top 10 Reasons to Plant Trees

An old recommendation that has always stuck with me says, "Plant acorns on 40 foot centers." This graphically contrasts the size of a small seedling with the depth and breadth of a mature oak. When a 

shade tree is planted, it is for future generations to enjoy.. Most people like trees and relate to them on a personal level, so here are some reasons to plant a tree this fall-- and when you think of some more, go 

ahead and add them in the comment section!

1. Trees increase property values by softening harsh outlines of buildings, screening unsightly views and providing brilliant fall color. Slow-growing, small ornamental trees are intrinsically valuable. Trees add beauty and grace to any community setting, making life more enjoyable, peaceful, relaxing. Trees offer a rich inheritance for future generations. 

2. Trees reduce air conditioning utility bills for cooling during summer heat an average of 33% percent  through their shade and respiration, providing natural "low-tech" cooling. This reduces the need to build  additional dams, power plants, and nuclear generators.  Deciduous trees provide passive solar  temperature regulation, providing shade in summer, but offering light during winter.  3. Tree shelters and windbreaks reduce heating bills in winter, increase snow entrapment, wind reduction  and wildlife habitat. Living snow fences hold snow away from roads, keeping roads open and reducing  road maintenance costs. Tree shelters for wildlife habitat and livestock reduce weight loss during cold  winter months and provide shade for moderating summer heat, along with significantly increasing crop yields  compared to fields with no windbreaks. Windbreaks create a more favorable micro-climate for cropland  by reducing wind and heat stress on the crop, while preventing topsoil loss and reducing soil moisture losses. 4. After leaves drop to the ground in autumn and are raked, they provide excellent mulch for flowerbeds and gardens, as well as exercise for people raking them. 5. Trees provide nutmeats (pecans, walnuts, hickory, hazelnuts), fruit (peach, apple, plum, persimmon), berries for jams and jellies (chokecherry, buffaloberry), and maple syrup, and pharmaceutical  products (for example, Taxol from Taxus or Yew trees in the Pacific NW has been successful in fighting breast, ovarian and lung cancer.  6. Trees help reduce stress in the workplace, increase the speed of recovery of hospital patients and instill community pride.   7. Forests provide summer and winter range for migratory birds.   8. Trees reduce soil erosion and water pollution, help recharge ground water and sustain streamflow. Forests  provide watersheds for lakes and ponds.

9. Fast growing trees provide fuelwood for stoves and fireplaces by establishing a continuous supply of  energy plantations, while managed forests provide pulpwood, lumber, plywood, veneer and other wood  products on a sustained yield basis.

10. Trees alleviate the “Greenhouse Effect” by absorbing carbon. A single tree absorbs about 13 pounds of CO2 per year, and one acre of new forest sequesters around  2.5 tons of carbon annually. Planting 100 million trees in the U.S. would reduce the amount of carbon by an estimated 18 million tons per year.  

So why wouldn't you pick out a tree and plant it this autumn? 

SOURCES: Kim Coder UGA Extension, Glenn Roloff USDA Forest Service;  http://www.treelink.org/

Quick Note: Growing Hot Peppers in the Kitchen Garden

Now that the season is drawing to a close, I've decided I love the look of red fruit pods on pepper plants in the kitchen garden. There’s a website called Ring of Fire that links 500 pepper-oriented websites together. http://www.ringoffire.net/ and you can find anything on peppers (and much you never thought of) there. 



As for me, I planted a couple of unlabeled hot pepper plants last spring and they did well in the high light intensity abundant in Atlanta. They went along fine until our heat wave (most of the summer) and the night temperatures got so high that they prevented fruit set, just as it did with their “cousins,” tomatoes. Then my uneven watering, exacerbated by our extended drought, caused misshapen peppers, and also made them hotter, but they still looked pretty and bright. 



Although I don’t ever plan to grow peppers indoors, Richard K posted some great stats that apply to outdoor growing that he ‘found in a book on Annums’. You can find them as a comment on this blog from last year:  http://www.thehotpepper.com/topic/10532-tips-for-growing-peppers-indoors/

No Fruit Set (assuming flowers haven’t dropped or been aborted):
Temperatures lower  than 60.8F or greater than 89.6F

Flower Drop:
Nighttime temperatures greater than 75.2F

Best Fruit Set:
Day and Night temperatures between  60.8F and 69.8F

Pollen Germination:
Optimal temps between 68F and 77F
Pollen is harmed at temperatures above 86F
Pollen is sterile if temps are above 86F 15 days prior to anthesis (before bloom) 

Lately I’ve take the first baby steps experimenting in the kitchen. I’ve added slivers of red pepper to the leftovers of homemade chicken soup, with favorable comments from 2/3 of my family.  I added a little more ground cayenne powder for additional zing in my cheese straw recipe. And I now order 2-pepper dishes at our favorite Thai restaurant; enough to make my eyes water and my nose run. Yum. 

Late Breaking Addition:
In India, chili-pepper stems are used as the source for yogurt cultures! Wow! 

Helter Skelter;Plant a Perennial Flower Bed with Random Leftovers

There is a hawk screaming in the distance as I smilingly contemplate the robust increase in the number of species I’ve added, just by installing a little flower bed. Basically it went from one species (overgrown Liriope) to twenty+ not counting the seeds scattered to grow at will. All but 3 plants were dug from my old garden and shoe-horned into a small flower bed about 6 feet deep by 18 feet long that slopes down across the front of the house, so the drainage is wonderful. 

As it rounds a corner, the flower bed narrows considerably, but still has room for some hot sun-loving perennials on the south side of the house. 

After the Liriope was dug and bushels of it were discarded, I amended the Georgia red clay with compost and Nature’s Helper so now it’s pretty easy to dig. This flower bed gets direct morning sun and no sun at all past noon, so it is ideal for almost every perennial and azaleas too. Hope there is enough sun for the Storybook Roses I’m trying out. 

The majority of plants were planted 12 days ago; not yet time to see what will make it and what will not. Since this is Zone 7 in Atlanta, there will be plenty of time for the transplants to root in the summer-warmed soil before cold weather and hard frosts arrive. 

Here is a list of the plants I’ve included, all of them odds and ends from moving except for purchase of one pot each of Parsley, Foxgloves and English Thyme. The list is arranged according to location, with tall, medium and short plants.

Background plants

George Tabor and a second Azalea (mystery)

Swamp Sunflowers

Gold Euonymous

Amsonia hubrichtii native bluestar flower,  2011 Perennial of the Year

Digitalis 'Excelsior Hybrids'

Middle Plants

3 Storybook Roses 'Little Women' pink

Helleborus x orientalis 'Deep Purple"

Shasta Daisies

Pink daisy Mums

Daylily 'Colonel Scarborough' early yellow

Lungwort, Pulmonaria longifolia

Lemon balm

Late yellow Mums

Foreground Plants

Creeping golden lemon thyme

Upright English thyme

Japanese Roof Iris, white

Japanese Roof Iris, lavender

Spearmint

Lamb’s Ears

Parsley

Seeds

Rudbeckia triloba

Ironweed

Zinnias

 iPhone photos by gardengeri

Can you see the tiny seedling parsley? I bought a pot of young parsley and separated them and planted each long tap root in moist soil, taking care to keep everything moist and shady. Transplanting parsley is a 50/50 proposition. <<>> Let me know how you "walk on the edge" in your garden.