Urban™ Columnar Apple Series Yields Fruit in a Square Foot!

Tasty Red™, Tangy Green™, Blushing Delight™ and Golden Treat™ Urban™ Columnar Apples yield good taste in a square foot!

Edible gardening is taking the forefront as the locally-grown food movement gains ground, and more and more gardeners are finding success harvesting their own crops. Enter Urban™ Columnar Apples by Garden Debut®, new introductions that yield great tasting apples in a tiny space. Now it’s easy to produce delicious, full-sized apples on slender, vertical trees that grow in large pots on sunny decks or balconies.

Urban™ Columnar Apple trees are loaded with fruiting spurs along the main leader, and branches are short and upright, producing straight, upright-growing, cylindrical apple trees. Plant Urban™ Columnar Apples in the ground, or transplant to larger containers coordinated with home and architecture and enjoy moving them around as desired.

Romantic apple blossoms in spring will enchant homeowners, apartment dwellers, condo owners, suburbanites and those short on space. Urban™ apple trees mature at 8 to 10 feet tall but less than two feet in diameter(!) , and are extremely healthy and disease resistant. When grown in full sun expect full-sized fruit the first year from planting, so long as there are two or more varieties for cross pollination. As trees mature, the yield of apples will increase. Be sure to maintain fertility levels for good growth and yields.

A choice of four varieties in the Urban™ Columnar Apple Series developed by Dr. Jaroslav Tupy of the Czech Republic ensure a wide selection of flavor, plus good cross-pollination and fruit set:  

Tasty Red™ is a bright red apple with a sweet, juicy flavor

Blushing Delight™ produces a blush of reddish green fruit with a slightly sweeter taste

Golden Treat™ greenish-gold apples are tart in early fall, but get sweeter the longer they are on the tree

Tangy Green™ lime green apples add a crisp, tart flavor to the series

Harvest tasty fruit within easy reach of the patio table, or host a pick-your-own on the porch and watch heads turn. Try Urban™ Columnar Apples in large tubs flanking the entrance or plant alongside a border or fence to add value. The impact of a loaded apple tree in a tiny space is irresistible.

Statistics Chart for Urban™ Columnar Apple Series:  
Tasty Red(TM) Urban Columnar Apple Malus 'UEB 3449-1'
Blushing Delight(TM) Urban Columnar Apple Malus 'UEB 3727-4'
Golden Treat(TM) Urban Columnar Apple Malus 'UEB3358-3'
Tangy Green(TM) Urban Columnar Apple Malus 'UEB 3812-2'

Plant Category:	Deciduous flowering fruit trees
Mature Height:	8 to 10  feet
Mature Spread:	1 ½ to 2 feet
Mature Form:	Extremely narrow, columnar form with multiple fruiting spurs on central leader
Growth Rate:	Vigorous
Sun Exposure:	Best grown in full sun
Soil Type:	Garden loam, amended clay, soil-less potting mixes with good fertility
Soil Moisture:	Moist, well-drained soils
Chilling Requirement:	800 – 1200 hours for good bud set (number of hours the temperature is below 45 degrees F. but above 32 degrees F. ) .
Flower Color:	Romantic pink and white apple blossoms on bare branches in early  spring
Fruit Set and Yield:	Two varieties are required for cross-pollination and good fruit set: expect full-sized fruit from the first year
Fruit:	Four varieties of Urban™ Apple Series provide a wide choice of taste and color on full-sized apples: Tasty Red(TM) Urban Columnar Apple Malus 'UEB 3449-1' Blushing Delight(TM) Urban Columnar Apple Malus 'UEB 3727-4' Golden Treat(TM) Urban Columnar Apple Malus 'UEB3358-3' Tangy Green(TM) Urban Columnar Apple Malus 'UEB 3812-2'
Summer Color:	Apple green leaf color
Fall Color:	Negligible
pH Level:	5.5 – 7.5
Zones:	4 – 9  (-30 degrees F or 23 Degrees C), well suited for most of the continental U.S.
Heredity:	Developed by Dr. Jaroslav Tupy, Czech Republic

                                                           

When performance counts, use Garden Debut® introductions

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Bare Root, Container-Grown and Balled-and-Burlapped Woody Ornamentals

Right now in late winter is the second best time to plant woody ornamentals (the best time is in the autumn). Choose from woody plants growing in containers, field grown with balled-&-burlapped root systems, and bare-root plants.

1. Container-grown plants are the most common source for nursery stock, are widely available and provide the best success for gardeners. The potting mix in the container is filled with vigorous white roots just hitting the sides of the pot. First, loosen a wide area of soil in the new garden site, dig a hole nearly the same size as the pot (but not deeper), and pop in the rootball, firming the surrounding soil and watering in thoroughly. Nothing could be simpler!  

Occasionally, the plant has been in the container too long, and the roots may have begun to circle around inside the pot. Either tease them out and point them in divergent directions in a wider planting hole, or else eliminate circling roots by trimming off with sharp pruners. Another possible red flag to consider with containers is die-back due to the sun striking one side of the pot and baking the roots on that side due to the heat. Choose shaded containers.

The majority of my garden plants are purchased as container-grown, with the added advantage that they can be planted 12 months out of the year. Another bonus is that multiple sizes (and prices) are often available, and I can often choose an economical smaller size.

2. Balled-&-Burlapped plants, often abbreviated as B&B, are mainly larger-sized, field grown trees and shrubs that have been dug out of an in-ground nursery with a ball of soil around the roots. Great care is taken to wrap the entire sphere (typically 1 to 3 feet in diameter) in burlap and then tie it securely at the base of the trunk, ready to be transported.  Depressions are made in the sales yard for these balled plants, and they are heavily mulched and carefully watered until sales day. The great advantage of B&B plants is their larger size, providing a more mature look when planted in the landscape. 

Avoid split or cracked root balls, or root balls that have become dried-out with wilted shoots and leaves. Pick B&B plants up from the bottom of the soil balls and don’t grab the trunks to sling around. When planting, remove every bit of burlap and fasteners to give the root ball contact with the native soil. Roll it to one side, then pull off the burlap and roll it into the hole, making sure the trunk is perpendicular to the ground 

before firming the surrounding soil and watering in.

I have had good success with a lush Doublefile Viburnum, a pink Eastern Dogwood and six large, 3-inch caliper Southern Magnolias planted as B&B specimens.

3. Bare-root plants are harvested only in the winter when dormant, and all soil is washed away from the roots, leaving them “naked” or exposed. Bare-root plants have the advantage of being light in weight therefore cheaper to ship over distances, providing a wider selection of unusual varieties available from individual specialty growers. When bare-root plants are received, visually inspect for extensive, healthy white or creamy root systems, and avoid dried out roots, slimy black waterlogged roots, and plants prematurely breaking dormancy.  When planting, build up a cone in the middle of the hole and set the bare crown at or slightly above the soil level but not below (peonies are a special case). Spread the roots out in a 360 degree pattern to take advantage of the entire soil volume available. Bare-root plants typically establish more quickly because the roots can be spread out and become acclimated to the native soil.

Roses, fruit trees and vines, and perennial veggies such as asparagus, horseradish and rhubarb are most commonly sold bare-root.

No matter how you get your plants, care for them by providing a light organic mulch and watering until the roots are well established. Have you had good success with one of these? Let us 
hear from you! 


Photo credits and sincere thanks: 3 versions, NY.gov; container-grown and teased out roots courtesy CES-NCSU.edu; balled-and-burlapped sketch, Answer.com; and bare root photo ThriftyFun.com  

By-Pass Pruners and Anvil Pruners

Recently I had to face reality and acknowledge that my trusty pruners have gone missing and it was way past time for them to turn up. Since February is the prime time to prune woody stems and almost everything in the garden, I decided they were indispensable, I had to have them, and ordered a replacement pair of classic Felco #2 bypass pruners. The ‘most popular pruners in the world’ arrived the next day shiny, bright red and sharp. But that got me thinking about the different types of pruners. 

By-pass pruners are my preference; they act like scissors with the upper blade making a slicing cut past the lower and leaving behind a clean, easy-to heal cut. The lower, non-sharpened blade is also known as the “hook” or sometimes (confusingly) as the “anvil blade”.  The forged aluminum alloy handles on my pruners have a padded red plastic coating that helps to locate them when laid down amongst the greens and browns and walk off. In addition, I can get replacements for all parts of the pruners, for example the springs have popped out now and then. I use a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water to disinfect the blades now and then when making a lot of cuts.

In contrast, anvil pruners work more like a knife on a flat cutting board. The sharp upper blade cuts down onto a non-moving, non-cutting surface. For some reason, anvil pruners are often less expensive than by-pass, tempting the novice gardener to choose them instead. But if an anvil blade gets dull, it generally crushes the stem or branch being cut, leaving behind a ragged, hard-to-heal cut that becomes an entryway for fungus spores or bacteria. Anvil pruners are usually a bit more bulky and while great for cutting out dead wood, are less able to get into tight spots.

Other non-cutting design options for pruners include ergonometric designs with a lower handle that revolves to reduce the effort of cutting, redesigns that are slimmer for extended reach, left-handed pruners and pruners for smaller hands. Find the one that suits you best and put it on your Valentine’s Day wish list.

P.S. Disclaimer: I receive no remuneration of any kind from the Felco Company; in fact, they don’t even know I wrote this blog. I just like them best of the many I’ve tried in my long gardening career. 

February 1, Groundhog Day and the Beginning of Spring

The days are getting longer; I’ve noticed! Sometime last week I realized the short dark days of winter are lightening up a bit and sunset is coming a little later each day. In the US and Canada, Groundhog Day is an annual, nationwide observance or celebration of (hopefully) the last few days of winter and the beginning of early spring.

February 1 is one of the great “cross quarter days” of the calendar year known as Imbloc that marks the midway point between the Winter Solstice (December 21) and the Spring Equinox (March 20). February 1st is also traditionally the feast day of St. Brigid, who began life as a Celtic goddess of creative inspiration and reproductive fertility (sowing of seeds) and ended up a Christian saint of hearth and home. In Western Europe, St. Brigid’s Day was traditionally the time to celebrate the rebirth of the land and prepare the fields for the first planting.

Combined with this, the custom of predicting future weather conditions based on animal habits dates back thousands of years. In late winter, farmers watched for hibernating animals to come out of their burrows as a signal of early spring. A superstition grew up in Western Europe: if the hedgehog saw his shadow on a bright, sunlit St. Brigid’s day he became “frightened” and returned to hibernate through six more weeks of winter.  

If St. Brigid’s day be fair and bright, Winter has another flight.

If St. Brigid’s day brings clouds and rain, winter will not come again.  

Transplanted to America, the hedgehog was changed to a groundhog, and the legend continued. As amusingly noted in Hub Pages, “Groundhog Day is a celebration that just about anyone can enjoy. While for many it seems strange and pointless, this once yearly occasion is actually a whole lot of fun for all involved.”  

Photo credits: thanks to tinyfarmblog.com and Punxatawny-Phil 

Native Beauties: Garden Debut Redbuds in Garden Center Magazine

Among the many redbuds available from Garden Debut(R), three native beauties made an appearance in the Spring Profit Centers insert of the January 2011 issue of the celebrated Garden Center Magazine.

The three Redbuds included The Rising Sun Redbud (TM), PPAF, Burgundy Hearts Redbud (R) PP 19654 and Ruby Falls Redbud (TM) PPAF

Here's a scan of the story from the magazine!

 Hope you'll be trying these this spring!  

Forcing Flowering Branches to Bring Spring Indoors Early

Got Seasonal Affective Disorder, a.k.a. the winter blahs? Cause Spring to arrive ahead of schedule by forcing flowering branches of woody ornamentals indoors. Any deciduous shrub or tree that flowers in early spring is a good candidate for forcing, although shrubs typically flower a bit more easily. Try Redbud, Spirea, Viburnum, Mahonia (Oregon Grape), Quince, Pussy Willow, Japanese Rose (Kerria), Flowering Cherry, Plum or Flowering Almond, Apple, Crabapple or Pear, Magnolia branches or the ubiquitous Forsythia.

Enjoy these blooms at home, or enter your cut stems of woody ornamentals in in a public Flower Show and win a blue ribbon!  For example, the Southeastern Flower Show is Feb. 25-27 with entries the day before, and there are two classes to enter: "Cut Specimens-Woody" Class H08 and "From the Outside In . . .A Musical Arrangement" Class H11, both in the Horticulture Division. 

After experiencing about eight weeks of outdoor temperatures in the 40s or below in the garden, most woodies will be ready to force. In addition to watching the calendar (late winter), swelling buds on garden plants are another good indicator. It will take anywhere from a week to nearly two months for the buds to turn into flowers while being forced. Keep in mind, the closer to the normal flowering date, the more readily the flowering branches can be forced into bloom.

Pick a day in January or February when temperatures have been above freezing. Before going out, first disinfect a deep bucket with detergent or a bleach solution, rinsing thoroughly. Then fill with warm (not hot, not cold) water and add a cut flower preservative. Commercial “cut flower food” provides both elaborated sugars that are normally supplied through photosynthesis and a disinfectant to reduce the growth of bacteria that can clog the vascular (water conducting) tissues.  Rosie Lerner and Michael Dana of the Perdue Department of Horticulture offer three recipes for make-your-own preservative solutions that will prolong the life of the flowering branches in Forcing Branches for Winter Color:  http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/ho-23.pdf .

Use sharpened bypass pruners or a sharp knife to harvest branches on your target plants.  Flower buds are generally rounder and larger than leaf buds, so choose branches with lots of potential flowers. Keep an eye on the overall shape of the shrub or tree as you cut and cut a few extra branches because some may not absorb water, and also they are great to share with friends or take to the office.

Quickly get those branches into water. Re-cut each stem on an angle to increase the surface area and ensure that it won’t sit flat on the bottom of the vase. Split or score the bottom inch or two of each stem to expose the conductive tissues (cambium layer) and encourage maximum water uptake and plunge them into the waiting vase. Trim off any buds or twigs that will be submerged under water so they won’t rot.

Cover the branches with a voluminous plastic bag (dry cleaner bags are great for this) and place in a cool room (50-60 degrees F.) out of direct sunlight. Check them frequently to see how they are coming along and to refresh the water, and when beginning to bloom, bring them into warmer temperatures. 

Compose a beautiful arrangement either with forced branches alone or by including other spring flowers.  Choose the most delightful decorative vase and enjoy them for a week or two. Prolong the display by moving them into a cool garage or breezeway each night.

And when the blooms are spent, before discarding, check to see if the woody stems have rooted in the water (!). Pussy Willows are notorious for easy-rooting will often sprout both roots and fresh green leaves. If so, pot them up for garden planting or gifts to friends.  

Photos: Pussy willows, Mahonia- Geri Laufer, buckets-BUHI Imports, cherry branch-blogs O'Reilly, Forsythia arrangement-Southwood Nursery

2011-2012 Greenleaf Nursery Company Wholesale Plant Catalog

So many plants; so little time.  .  .  The new 2011-2012 Catalog from Greenleaf Nursery Company arrived in my mailbox like a gift, heavy with promise. Within its colorful pages I am reminded of the incredible diversity of nature, sometimes helped along by dedicated plant breeders and growers coaxing the best possible combination of traits from their newly introduced plants.

Greenleaf Nursery Company is a 60-year wholesale company with environmental awards and a sterling reputation which produces just under 20 million plants annually. Well-known brands like Southern Living Plants, Proven Winners, Novalis Plants that Work and Garden Debut® all rely on Greenleaf Nursery Company to grow big, lush, beautiful plants that reinforce those brands, and to deliver them to independent garden centers where garden designers, homeowners and landscapers can select the best.

The cover photo of the Catalog evokes a sense of wonder and mystery, beckoning the reader inside. After an incredible spread of the nursery and photos of company leaders, beautiful sectional dividers lend order to categories including shrubs, roses, grasses, conifers trees and color. Each entry provides a wealth of information, including a color photo, plant names, description, sun/shade requirements and the climate zone, making the Catalog a valuable resource.  

As Albert Camus noted, “Life is the sum of all your choices,” and while it is certainly not possible to sell or grow everything offered, the plants I choose will give evidence to my eccentricities and reveal my gardening penchants. Will it be an old favorite or something new to try? Renowned gardener, author and scene designer Sydney Eddison, wrote in the August/September 1993 issue of Horticulture Magazine, "Gardens are a form of autobiography." Indeed they are. 

Wholesale customers: obtain a copy of this awesome catalog by finding the Sales Rep for your area at  http://www.greenleafnursery.com/sales_representatives.asp .